Useful IRL stuff to know

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Topic Started: Sep 19 2017, 09:43 AM (283 Views)

That Kode Guy

Sep 19 2017, 09:43 AM Post #1

Ruiner of All

Posts:: 9,053
Group:: Admin
Member: #33
Joined:: December 1, 2006

joey_picus

JOEY McCONNELL'S REFERENCE TABLE OF MOTOR POWER AND WEIGHT

^{now hopefully more accurate and less variable}

You've probably guessed what this is from the title - yep, it's a table of motors. This is a list of various motors, common and otherwise, used in fanfiction robots and their weight, along with an exact or otherwise indication of the power they will produce at a given voltage.

This is a reference for FanFic only, not gospel by any means, use at your own risk.

RED indicates that the motor is being run above its rated voltage, this will produce more power and torque but it will also produce more heat and potentially be less reliable. Any motor that is underlined and red should only be used if steps are taken to protect it, such as current limiting or using v-belts for drive that will slip if the driven object stalls.

BLUE indicates the motor is being run at below its rated voltage, and will last for longer, albeit at the expense of power and torque

PURPLE indicates values that are entirely theoretical. J McConnell cannot be held responsible for any detonation that may or may not occur if you use these motors at that voltage.

Motors presented in normal text are rated to produce 'continuous' power - that is, over a long period of time that is the average power they put out. Their performance may turn out to be better than this in battle, precisely by how much is something that varies depending on both the motor and the application.

These motors are also much more likely to be overvolted safely.

Motors that are underlined are rated for their peak power - that is, at maximum amp draw at a set voltage, this is how much power they will theoretically produce. They will likely produce less than this in battle, and IF RUN AT THEIR RATED POWER FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME, WILL LIKELY BURN OUT, SHORT OUT, EXPLODE OR DO SIMILAR BAD THINGS.

These motors are also going to be touchy when overvolted - see above.

Motors in bold are series wound motors. These produce a lot more torque per amp than a permanent magnet motor of a similar size, but also draw many times more current - one robot using two car starter motors for drive drained a 40ah 12v battery flat in five minutes of fighting. Use with care.

These motors can handle being overvolted but will draw even more current when that happens; account for the weight of cabling and suitable controllers in your design.

Motor Name Weight 12v 24v 36v 48v 72v Used In

Bosch 750w 3.8kgs - 750w 2.25hp - - Most heavyweights (24v), Tornado (36v)

Litton 800w 3.4kgs - 800w 2.4hp - - St. Agro (24v), Wheely Big Cheese (36v)

Iskra 800w** 2.6kgs - 800w - - - 101, Vader (24v)

Iskra 1.2kw** 4.0kgs - 1200w - - - Draven (24v)

Lynch LEM130 3.0kgs - 1.75hp 4hp 5.3hp - Storm II, DisConstructor - both drive and weapon (36v)

Lynch LEM170 8.5kgs - 5.75hp 13hp - - -

Lynch LEM200 11kgs - 6.75hp 9.25hp 11.4hp - -

Ampflow A28-150* 1.72kgs - 3hp DON'T - - Hornet, Dizzy Tilly - both disc motors (24v)

Ampflow A28-400* 3.1kgs - 4.5hp 10hp - - Biohazard, Big Nipper (24v)

Ampflow A40-300* 5.4kg - 3.8hp 8.5 hp - - Envy / Trax / Thor (current live circuit version) (24v)

PERM PMG 080 / TechnoBots PowerDrive 3.4kgs - 4hp 9hp - - M2XT (24v), Scorpion (36v)

PERM PMG 132 11.25kg - - - 15hp 34hp -

Briggs & Stratton Etek 9.5kgs - - - 15hp - Tanto (24v)

Ford Fiesta car starter motor 3.0kgs 800w 4.25hp - - - Sump Thing (12v), Killertron - axe motor (12v)

Yamaha 550cc motorbike starter motor 2.0kgs 1000w 5.3hp - - - Spin Doctor, Agent Orange (12v)

Emrax 188 6.8kg - - - - 25.75hp -

^{*NOTE: Sometime in 2010, the Magmotors (S28-150, S28-400, and C40-300) did something very sneaky and changed their names to those shown in the table - as far as I am aware nothing else has changed though and the figures still stand. -- J McConnell, December 2010

**Iskra motors are only rated for 4 minutes maximum power at their nominal voltage so they cannot be overvolted. --J McConnell, January 2011}

SOURCES

http://www.lmcltd.net/ - Lynch Motor Company (LEM130, 170, 200)

http://users.breathe.com/planteng/ - The Big Cheese Robot Company (Litton 800w)

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/ - Robot Marketplace (most other motors)

Other figures are either from old roboteer websites or from archives of the old Robot Wars Tip Swap forum.

CALCULATIONS USED

750w = 1 horsepower

Overvolting from 12 to 24v - i.e. doubling the voltage - will double the current drawn and therefore quadruple the power.

Overvolting from 24v to 36v is voltage x 1.5, therefore current is also x 1.5 and the power is x 2.25.

You can draw your own conclusions as to what to do for other voltages.

With thanks to:

- Leo van Miert for giving me advice and correcting me with regards to Magmotors and precisely what happens when a motor is overvolted to 36v

- Shane Swan for also giving advice and for informing me of the voltage Thor and Envy ran at

- Andrew Jackson for putting all the info I gathered into a table in the first place, contributing all the tds and trs that make it readable

- Kody Kunz for correcting my maths fail with the LEMs

- Everyone who commented and offered suggestions, particularly Paul who made me realise that people actually trust this thing.

- version 2.5, 15 January 2011, Joey McConnell

Team Covenant stuff

That Kode Guy

Sep 19 2017, 09:44 AM Post #2

Ruiner of All

Posts:: 9,053
Group:: Admin
Member: #33
Joined:: December 1, 2006

ARMOUR LIST (unfinished)
by Kody Kunz/That Kode Guy

----

The MatWeb armour calculator
http://www.matweb.com/tools/weightcalculator.aspx

--------
--------

POLYCARBONATE (Lexan)

Density 1.2 g/cm³
Tensile strength 55�75 MPa

----

ALUMINIUM

2024 (aluminium-copper alloy; all series)
Density 2.78 g/cm³

2024-O
Tensile strength 207-220 MPa

2024-T3
Tensile strength 400-427 MPa

2024-T351
Tensile strength 470 MPa

6061 (aluminium-magnesium alloy)
Density 2.70 g/cm³

6061-O
Tensile strength 125 MPa

6061-T4
Tensile strength 207 MPa

6061-T6
Tensile strength 300 MPa

6063 (aluminium-magnesium alloy)
Density 2.68 g/cm³

6063-O
Tensile strength 131 MPa

6063-T1
Tensile strength 117 MPa

6063-T4
Tensile strength 131 MPa

6063-T5
Tensile strength 152 MPa

6063-T6
Tensile strength 196 MPa

7075 (aluminium-zinc alloy)
Density 2.81 g/cm³

7075-O
Tensile strength 276 MPa

7075-T6
Tensile strength 510�572 MPa

7075-T7
Tensile strength 505 MPa

7075-T651
Tensile strength 462�538 MPa

----

TITANIUM

Grade 2 (unalloyed titanium, standard oxygen)
Density 4.51 g/cm³
Tensile strength 344 MPa

Grade 5 (Ti6Al4V)
Density 4.42 g/cm³
Tensile strength 950 MPa

Grade 6 (Ti5Al2.5Sn)
Density 4.48 g/cm³
Tensile strength 972 MPa

Grade 7 (Titanium/palladium alloy)
Density 4.5 g/cm³
Tensile strength 344 MPa

Grade 9 (Ti3Al2.5V) and Grade 18 (Ti3Al2.5V0.05Pd)
Density 4.48 g/cm³
Tensile strength 740 MPa

Grade 11 (Ti-0.15Pd) and Grade 17 (Ti-0.05Pd)
Density 4.51 g/cm³
Tensile strength 345 MPa

Grade 12 (titanium alloyed with molybdenum and nickel)
Density 4.54 g/cm³
Tensile strength 483 MPa

Grade 19 (Beta-C, treated at 480C)
Density 4.82 g/cm³
Tensile strength 1310-1480 MPa

Ti10V2Fe3Al
Density 4.62 g/cm³
Tensile strength 1310 MPa

Ti15V3Cr3Al3Sn
Density 4.76 g/cm³
Tensile strength 1380 MPa

----

STEEL

Regular Steel
Density 7.85 g/cm³
Tensile strength 276 MPa

Stainless Steel (Grade 304)
Density 8.00 g/cm³
Tensile strength 515 MPa

Hardox 400
Density 9.41 g/cm³
Tensile strength 1250 MPa

Hardox 450
Density 8.129 g/cm³
Tensile strength 1400 MPa

Hardox 500
Density ???
Tensile strength 1550 MPa

Team Covenant stuff

That Kode Guy

Sep 19 2017, 09:52 AM Post #3

Ruiner of All

Posts:: 9,053
Group:: Admin
Member: #33
Joined:: December 1, 2006

A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO FRA-STYLE VAPOURBOTS

by Alex Holt

"This guide is just here to let people new to this section of the forum get their bearings, after a few incidents which could perhaps have been handled better. It covers the basics of vapourboteering, how it works, how to do it and a few guidelines on etiquette. Coincidentally I'd written this last week, and then there was a request for something similar, so here it is.

Part 1: What is a vapourbot?

The basic idea of vapourbots is that of Robot Wars or Battlebots � a remote controlled machine fights another remote controlled machine until one wins. The difference of course is that both the fights and the robots don�t actually exist (although real robots may be entered in the majority of tournaments). Whether you don�t have the funds, patience or experience to build a real robot, or even if you have built a real robot but use vapourbots to have fun with designs implausible to construct, it�s just a bit of fun.

You design your vapourbots from top to bottom with whatever features you wish and enter them into tournaments written by other people on the forums, who will draw them off and write the fights until they get a winner. Simple.

Part 2: How do I create a Vapourbot?

The key to designing a vapourbot is writing the stats, remember these are almost always expected to conform roughly to a standard heavyweight machine which is 100kg. Certain movement styles may gain weight bonuses but this varies between tournaments, so make sure to check the start of a tournament for it�s specific rules.

The basic stat layout is as follow:

Name:
- Whatever you want it to be, as long as it�s not offensive and not already taken (either by a real robot or existing vapourbot).
Weight:
- 100kg is the standard, however, other movement mechanisms sometimes get different bonuses. The common ones are: Walkers � 150kg/200kg, Tracks � 110kg, Shufflers: 120kg/150kg. Note that the term shuffler may vary between writers in interpretation, so check.
Shape:
- Whatever you want it to be, just describe it as best you can. A picture usually helps.
Wheels/Motivation:
- Describe in detail wheels, tracks, walking mechanism or anything else you come up with. The more detail you give the better idea the writer will have about what you are imagining, talk about materials, widths, and any special features.
Motors:
- What motors you use and what voltage they run at. Remember they have to be real life components. If you don�t know what motors to use, look at the above chart for examples, or ask anyone.
Speed:
- Is a pretty obvious one � the faster a machine is the harder to control it will generally be, the slower it is the easier to out manoeuvre. As a guideline, staying between 8mph and 16mph will suit most needs.
Turning circle:
- This will almost always be 0m, however a few robots with more exotic drive systems may vary.
Armour:
- Armour is pretty self explanatory � pick a material and give a thickness for the most basic armour stats, however, you may want to have different materials and/or thicknesses in different parts of the robot. Also if you want to talk about the chassis, that should go here. If you are unsure what material suits your purpose and how much you can fit in, ask someone.
Ground clearance:
- The difference between the bottom of the robots main body and the ground, generally this measures between 3mm and 1cm. If you had no ground clearance you wouldn�t be able to move, but the higher it is the easier to get under. If you have an axlebot or an externally tracked bot then you done really need to give this stat. Also, �skirts� should be listed here � essentially pieces of metal that sit against the ground to prevent an opponent getting under so easily � make sure to list what they are made of and how thick they are.
Srimech
- AKA self righting mechanism � essentially how does your robot recover from being flipped over, can it�s weapon right it or does it have a specific mechanism for doing so.
Weapons:
- Generally the �big� one, you can use anything you can think of as long as it follows the normal rules (no chemicals, no untethered projectiles etc) Be realistic, generally the more weight you give to a weapon the more powerful you can make it but the more you sacrifice elsewhere in your design. You can have as many weapons as you want, but the more you have the less weight you�ll be able to use for each and the weaker they�ll be. However, remember that your own weapon will feed back into your robot � so you better be able to withstand the impact as much as your opponent!

Additionally some writers may ask for strengths/weaknesses and dimensions, but usually these are optional.

A picture will always help the writer a lot, whether its just a sketch or a fancy 3D model, some people will even be willing to make an image for you if you don�t feel up to it yourself.

Part 3: Any other suggestions?

The most important thing to remember is that in theory your robot should be able to exist in real life, so don�t use things which don�t exist. For example saying you have mithril armour will just get you asked to redo your stats, as will creating your own materials, motors and suchlike.

If someone says your robot is overweight ask them to elaborate if you aren�t sure � it�s usually pretty rough anyway, but if your robot glaringly is too heavy people will bring it up. This is nothing personal but its just being fair.

If you are stuck in any way ask for advice from anyone � even if they personally can�t help you they can probably point you to someone who can.

If a writer writes a fight and you discover they have misinterpreted something about your design, don�t worry � explain what they didn�t get and then add the extra details into your stats to help people understand your idea better. Diagrams can help sometimes.

Keep your stats somewhere online where you can link to � for example, on a website or forum, this saves you copying and pasting every time.

Part 4: What Should I Design?

Whatever you want! If you have an idea write it down in stats. It doesn�t matter if it turns out to be a bad idea, you can always change it or just scrap it and start something new later. Most vapours will take a little bit of refinement before they take off properly.

Don�t just copy something, be imaginative, designing can be as much fun as the taking part. If you want base it on your favourite robot then take the basics of that design and have a go at making it how you would make it.

Remember, you don�t have to design to try to win, just design something because it could be cool if you want.

Part 5: Tournaments and Etiquette

Anyone can write a tournament, however, this means there are a few things to bear in mind. Firstly try and keep civil at all times � this should go without saying anyway as this is a public forum, but there is no reason to argue when a rational discussion will suffice, and if that fails then it takes a better person to walk away. There is no excuse ever to verbally attack someone.

Equally if you are being unfairly treated by someone, tell one of the more senior members and they can try to sort things.

If there is something that makes you struggle in any way again just ask a senior member for example if you are younger than most people or you have any learning disabilities, people will be able to try and help you. However, don�t just leave it until something has happened and bring it up as a defence as that doesn�t help anyone.

Don�t take other people�s stuff unless they ask you to � for example vapourbots or tournaments, it�s theirs and so they get to decide what to do with it. Feel free to base stuff on it though.

If you lose a fight, which we all do a lot, don�t let it put you off � remember it�ll take a while to perfect your designs and stats � and learn the ins and outs of it. Don�t take a loss personally (unless of course you really have reason to suspect it is personal, in which case talk to some of the other forum members) but remember in every tournament there is only one robot which doesn�t lose, and generally they are ones which have been refined for ages � there are robots with over 8 years worth of development out there � and you can beat them, just don�t expect to do it in your first match.

Part 6: Writing

I advise against writing until you have settled in a little, but whenever you are ready is good. Take a look at how other people write, and at actual robot wars fights to get an idea of what kind of stuff happens.

You can define your arena, your house robots and any rules you want so don�t feel limited by what you�ve seen before.

A good idea is to start small and get feedback on your writing and then write bigger stuff when you feel more confidant. A good starting size for a tournament would be 8 or 16 robots. Remember when you ask for entries to be realistic about the number of people you can get to enter and how quickly you�ll get them, it�s generally good to give at least a few weeks for signups as our community is very small, but start whenever you are ready.

Delays are always preferential to cancellations, but if you do have to cancel, most people like to see a hypothetical � basically just a quick list form of what you think would have happened.

Anyway, that gives you a good solid starting point, I hope you enjoy yourselves!"

Team Covenant stuff

Mole55

Sep 21 2017, 02:20 PM Post #4

See Syl, no creativity!

Posts:: 332
Group:: Members
Member: #196
Joined:: April 23, 2016

Another useful page full of things that may help you:

http://runamok.tech/AskAaron/tools.html

North-West Sheds: 26-56

New Blood Tournament
HW: The Animals: 3-1

Robot Fight Night
MW: Ikea's Guard Dog: 2-1
HW: Dock Leaf 2: 1-2

The Gentleman's Club
FW: Mr Halsworth: 1-0
HW: Fathom: 1-1

Notable Results:
Tyrian reaching the playoffs in CBC1
Sleipnir reaching the playoffs in R.O.B.O.T.S
The Animals coming 2nd in New Blodo

Not including rumbles, loaned robots, friendlies or tag-teams.

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Mole55

Nov 23 2017, 02:03 PM Post #5

See Syl, no creativity!

Posts:: 332
Group:: Members
Member: #196
Joined:: April 23, 2016

Hey.

Do you like CAD models of motors?

Cause I have some:

(login required for most)

LEM-200 (big brushed motor: really only useful for HW spinners (also technically a CAD of the Agni 95R, a clone): https://grabcad.com/library/agni-motor-95r

Scorpion HKIII 4025 (a good FW weapon motor): https://grabcad.com/library/scorpion-hkiii-4025-brushless-dc-motor-1

Turnigy Rotomax 100cc (8kw. At a weird juncture where it could be used for many different applications): https://grabcad.com/library/turnigy-rotomax-100cc-size-brushless-outrunner-motor-167kv-1

Turnigy Helidrive 4956 (3.7kw of brushless): https://grabcad.com/library/motor-helidrive-4956-1

Turnigy Trackstar 1/8th (sensored for use as drive. Not as powerful as other options tho): https://grabcad.com/library/turnigy-trackstar-1-8th-sensored-brushless-motor-2350kv-1

Ampflow A28-150 (you know what this is): http://nearchaos.net/A28-150.zip

Ampflow A28-400 (see the short mag): http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/Download-Model.aspx?catalogid=171&id=67408

Edited by Mole55, Nov 23 2017, 02:45 PM.

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