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| Cranking the torsion bars; Lifting the nose for bigger tires | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 2 2006, 07:03 PM (1,397 Views) | |
| 04Dakota | Dec 2 2006, 07:03 PM Post #1 |
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Kodabear
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If you have just installed a 3" PA body lift and 33" tires you will need to raise the nose high enough to prevent rubbing. This is what you will need to have handy: 15/16 in. socket for a 1/2" drive Socket wrench with a 1/2" drive (of course) A cheater bar that will fit over the wrench handle Floor jack 2 jack stands Measuring tape Pencil and paper Blocks to place under the rear tires Something to mark bolts with Park your truck on a level and paved surface. Because every torsion bar has a different spring rate, which can't be helped, you may have to crank one farther than the other to get the same height. First measure the height of the vehicle at all four corners. Measure the distance between the tire and the fender. Next, measure the clearance of the front cross member where the A-arms attach to the IFS cross member. You are taking down all of these measurements so you can adjust each bar until both sides of the vehicle are the same height. Put the blocks in front of and behind the rear tires to prevent the truck from rolling. Set the parking brake. Jack the front end off the ground until the front tires are high enough off the ground so they will be off the ground when you place jack stands under the frame. The tires are at full droop at this point and cranking the torsion bars will not change how far they hang down at full droop. Place the jack stands under the frame to support the front end of the vehicle and lower the floor jack until the frame rests on the stands, to make a stable vehicle to work on. ![]() ![]() Time to crawl under the truck. Follow the torsion bars from the A-arm to the torsion key. The keys will stand out because they are rusted since the factory didn’t paint them. Now look for the bolt that runs up through the key to the frame. Mark the position of each bolt on the key and the head of the bolt so they line up. This will help you keep count of rotations in case you remove the wrench. Set your wrench to tighten and place the cheater bar over the handle. Start cranking the passenger side until it is tight but not do not over tighten, remember, you are using a cheater bar. Crank the drivers side the same amount of turns. This is where the finesse comes in. Jack up the front end, remove the jack stands, and lower the truck. The tires are holding the suspension in a drooped position so you will have to take it for a short drive to settle it. Park it back in the same location, because it is time to measure again. You should also be able to eye the truck from the side and front to see if it is level or has a slight rake. Remember you cranked the passenger side all the way, so that side can’t be raised anymore. Now if the measurements on both the left and right sides match, you can leave it if it looks right or adjust it down to where you like it without lifting the front again. Remember each time you crank the bolt; you have to settle the suspension. I started one turn at a time to judge how far it would drop with each rotation. The reason I had you crank the passenger side first, was so that you remember which side you cranked down. Keep track of the final settings because if you need to reset the suspension, these numbers are vital. You will notice that the truck rides stiffer, the front wheels want to jump into dips and holes because you have increased the spring rate into a stiff spring ratio, and the rear axle doesn’t hop as much over bumps because you have also shifted some of the weight of the truck to the back axle. I haven’t had to adjust the headlights but I recommend you have the front end aligned. Go for the lifetime alignment package if you are going to do some serious offroading, because IFS suspensions always get out of alignment for some reason. I ending up lowering the nose slightly because the weight of the shell made the butt sag and I’m not ready to invest in a rear lift kit. Good luck and God speed. |
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Scott C. Why do I wheel in a Dodge...because everyone else drives a Jeep. Famous last words: Watch this! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2589577<a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@Sport@5@4x4@6@4.7L@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| Alta Boy | Dec 2 2006, 09:53 PM Post #2 |
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Quad Squad site owner
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Nice write-up!
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Peter![]() Sully..............................................The 4x4 | |
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| SterlingCTdak | Jan 24 2007, 07:29 AM Post #3 |
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Advanced Member
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Good writeup! I would like to add one minor thing. Make sure to keep an eye on the upper bump-stop (can be seen in the first photo). You want the suspension to still travel, so leave some space between the upper bump-stop, and the upper A arm. Each full turn should yeild @ 1/4" of lift/lower Just my 2cents. |
| 2000 QC, SLT 4x4. 4.7L auto, 3.92LS. 3" P.A. Body Lift, 33" ProComp AT's. NGK 2262's, Royal Purple throughout drivetrain, clear corners, and a bunch of little stuff not worth mentioning. | |
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| y2kota | Jan 24 2007, 09:39 AM Post #4 |
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Just an old fart.
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Yea what the other guys said... Nice write up Wish I had torsion bars after reading that, just to go crank on them :lol: |
![]() Don Mallett, Fort Worth, TX Home of the Y2KOTA Modifications listed here.<a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2000@4@SLT%20Plus@5@2WD@6@4.7L@7@Link%20in%20sig.@-2@@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| acornish | May 14 2007, 05:58 PM Post #5 |
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Advanced senior member
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ok so all i have to do is tun up the tesion to level out my truck---- cool its front end is 1&1/2" lower than the back--- i was thinking this would work but didnt want to stress the bars---but after reading this i guess i wont |
![]() Gus 2004 Quad Cab Sport 4X4 Patriot Blue w/4.7 magnum http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2644870/1 <a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@sport@5@4x4@6@4.7%20HO%20Magnum%20V8@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| 04Dakota | May 14 2007, 11:07 PM Post #6 |
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Kodabear
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I thought the same, but it worked. I didn't like the full crank because every time I drove over a dip in the road, the front wanted to jump down into the dip. I brought it back down a little and the ride is much better. |
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Scott C. Why do I wheel in a Dodge...because everyone else drives a Jeep. Famous last words: Watch this! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2589577<a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@Sport@5@4x4@6@4.7L@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| whitequad2004 | May 15 2007, 12:06 AM Post #7 |
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Advanced Member
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like 04Dakota, mine are only part way cranked, and what a difference it made!!! mine are only 1 1/4 inches up, which cured most of the rubbing issues, and the 'kota is basically level now. I got lucky, teh guys at the tire shop did mine....took them about 2 minutes with an impact gun, got it realigned, and i'm good to go!! Thinkin, though, that once the 3-inch BL goes on, I can put 'em back to normal? -Mike |
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2004 Dakota QC 4x4, 4.7, auto, Sport Plus Completed Mods: Toyo M/T tires, T-bar crank, Kenwood deck, MTX amp, Pioneer sub, clear corners, euro tails, Volant CAI with IAT relocation, Flowmaster 40 series SI/SO, Cobra 40 channel cb, 4 foot antenna, Mossy Oak seat covers, Mopar floor mats, Modern alloy wheels. coming up: Transgo kit, trans. temp gauge, Rancho RSX shocks, 3" PA body lift or T-bar keys.... | |
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| QUAD DAD | May 15 2007, 08:40 AM Post #8 |
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I wanted to do this, but doesn't this put more of a strain on the front end components, ball joints, cv's. I just had an alignment done and all they had to do was toe adjustments which I think is really good considering my truck has 110,000 miles on it. I don't want to have to start replacing front end parts or tires because this is going to make them wearout prematurely. |
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Dave 2002 4.7 QC Sport Plus 4X4 Some of my mods are Gibson dual sport exhaust, H.O. cams and intake, ARE lid w/spoiler, Street Scene grille inserts, euro clear headlights w/clear markers, Transgo reprogramming kit, chrome wheels, Power Slot Cryo rotors & Hawk pads, cowl hood with custom underliner, and lots of chrome, billet and paint under the hood. Quad Squad Member | |
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| whitequad2004 | May 15 2007, 05:19 PM Post #9 |
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Advanced Member
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I cant speak for everybody, but with the minimal cranking i did on mine, to date mine has no abnormal wear, on components or tires..... even better was, when i had teh swaybar bushings replaced this spring, the dealership didn't say a thing about the t-bars being cranked above normal. just my experience....and this all being said, i do hope that when i put the body lift on i can put the bars back to normal. |
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2004 Dakota QC 4x4, 4.7, auto, Sport Plus Completed Mods: Toyo M/T tires, T-bar crank, Kenwood deck, MTX amp, Pioneer sub, clear corners, euro tails, Volant CAI with IAT relocation, Flowmaster 40 series SI/SO, Cobra 40 channel cb, 4 foot antenna, Mossy Oak seat covers, Mopar floor mats, Modern alloy wheels. coming up: Transgo kit, trans. temp gauge, Rancho RSX shocks, 3" PA body lift or T-bar keys.... | |
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| 04Dakota | May 17 2007, 10:05 PM Post #10 |
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Kodabear
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My A-arms are close to level so when the family gets in it levels out. There is no abnormal wear. I check the cv boots every once in a while just to make sure. |
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Scott C. Why do I wheel in a Dodge...because everyone else drives a Jeep. Famous last words: Watch this! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2589577<a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@Sport@5@4x4@6@4.7L@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| acornish | May 21 2007, 07:40 PM Post #11 |
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Advanced senior member
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ok i know what im doing tomorrow at the shop--- do i have to alain afterwards though? |
![]() Gus 2004 Quad Cab Sport 4X4 Patriot Blue w/4.7 magnum http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2644870/1 <a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@sport@5@4x4@6@4.7%20HO%20Magnum%20V8@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| Abstrastic | May 21 2007, 08:22 PM Post #12 |
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If it's in the way it will get run over!!!
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Yes alignment is a must. I am having my torsion keys installed tomorrow and then it is going straight to the alignment shop. Evan. |
Evan. 2002 Dodge Dakota QC 4x4--SOLD 2004 VW Jetta GLI ---SOLD | |
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| acornish | May 22 2007, 06:28 PM Post #13 |
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Advanced senior member
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ok turned them up 1.5 inches --aligned-- man this thing rides stiff think ill just go by the keys and get longer shocks |
![]() Gus 2004 Quad Cab Sport 4X4 Patriot Blue w/4.7 magnum http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2644870/1 <a href='http://eapr-1/@3@2004@4@sport@5@4x4@6@4.7%20HO%20Magnum%20V8@' target='_blank'></a> | |
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| Abstrastic | May 22 2007, 11:51 PM Post #14 |
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If it's in the way it will get run over!!!
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The ride doesnt seem that stiff. After having the keys installed the truck sits much better and just looks better from the front. |
Evan. 2002 Dodge Dakota QC 4x4--SOLD 2004 VW Jetta GLI ---SOLD | |
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| whitequad2004 | May 22 2007, 11:57 PM Post #15 |
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Advanced Member
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How does the angle on your CV's look? Look majorly different than before the keys? |
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2004 Dakota QC 4x4, 4.7, auto, Sport Plus Completed Mods: Toyo M/T tires, T-bar crank, Kenwood deck, MTX amp, Pioneer sub, clear corners, euro tails, Volant CAI with IAT relocation, Flowmaster 40 series SI/SO, Cobra 40 channel cb, 4 foot antenna, Mossy Oak seat covers, Mopar floor mats, Modern alloy wheels. coming up: Transgo kit, trans. temp gauge, Rancho RSX shocks, 3" PA body lift or T-bar keys.... | |
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Nice write-up!





6:40 PM Jul 10
