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| Nissan Pulsar Buying Guide | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 20 2007, 04:24 PM (163 Views) | |
| RA Jay | Sep 20 2007, 04:24 PM Post #1 |
4 Have Gone But Never Forgotten.
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Tyres, Brakes and Suspension: - Standard brakes are only “just” adequate, so an uprated set-up suggests a clued-up previous owner. Lack of grip and squealing probably means the wrong tyres. As standard, it should be on Bridgestone tyres. Regular kerbing will knock out tracking and show up as wear on the tyres edges. Listen to rumbling wheel bearings. A knocking from the front could mean worn suspension bushes or knackered struts. Four wheel alignment is vital if you want to make the most of your tyres. Interior: - A minor gripe can be erratic electric windows on the driver’s side, possibly due to faulty connectors. Brake fluid on the driver’s footwell carpet means master-cylinder seal failure. Faulty air-conditioning, when fitted, means either a simple re-gas or a new exchanger is needed. Wind-noise from the doors is a door-seal problem or the door hangers. A noisy roof, which has come detached from the roof frame is a very common problem. Bodywork: - Look out for evidence of accident damage and a poor standard of work. Also the car’s are not underselaed in Japan, so ask for evidence of this. Rusty rear arches are a common problem because of the lack of underseal so check for any underlying rust coming through. Clutch: - A well-used GTI-R can easily eat its clutch, a slipping clutch is often found on cars running uprated boost. Tuned cars certainly need a better clutch. Make sure you go on a high speed run and check it doesn’t slip in 5th gear as this is puttinig the most load on it. Turbo: - Lots of blue smoke on the overrun may indicate a blown or failing unit. Transmission: - Difficult gear change, especially at high revs, is probably due to the synchromesh. Listen out for nasty noises. Engine: - The Pulsar is a tough little nut because there’s a timing chain keeping that 2.0-litre lump together. If oil pressure is slow to build up, it probably means a worn crank even though its not yet rattly. A rattly top end may mean that the cams need re-shimming. At £16 per shim, that could be a bill for £300+ before you start on the labour charges. Ensure that the engine runs smoothly and is mechanically quiet. If it’s not, walk away and find another. If the car does not rev above 3000rpm there could be an engine management or sensor problem. Modified engines are not uncommon, and might mean trouble unless the work has been carried out to a high standard. An after-market dump valve is an obvious give away, as is a boost pressure over 0.7bar. About 280bhp is reckoned to be the safe maximum for continued reliability, but only if the fuelling is set up right. Hopefully, there is supporting documentation as to what has been done and by whom. Play safe and always use Optimax or BP Ultimate with an import or modified example, octane booster may also be a plus. Expect about 200+miles to a tank (24mpg ish) if you drive reasonably steady, down to well under 100 if you drive it hard all the time. |
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1995 WRX - 318bhp/300ftlb - SOLD - 2005 2001 WRX Bugeye - 235bhp/230ftlb - SOLD - 2007 1996 WRX Type RA - 282bhp/285ftlb - SOLD - 2008 1997 STI Type RA - 350bhp/320ftlb - SOLD - 2009 1991 Nissan Pulsar GTiR - 286bhp/280ftlb - SOLD - 2009 | |
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| Nismo Jester | Dec 18 2007, 03:55 PM Post #2 |
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Do these run the SR20DET? Any tips re upgrading Tubbie or intercooler? Is a FMIC a good move, as in the 200SX, or is there too much body work/effort to warrant replacing the TMIC? Also aren't there any better tyres to use?
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| DNACARS | Dec 18 2007, 04:12 PM Post #3 |
John
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All you have to do is get one from ME
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| DNACARS | Dec 18 2007, 04:16 PM Post #4 |
John
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exhaust, air filter, fuel pump, bleed valve turn boost up to 1 bar 300bhp.. then 2 months later a new clutch upgrade because your old one will be dead... and then breaks off of 300zx cheap way... job done |
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| MINESGTIR | Jul 22 2008, 02:50 PM Post #5 |
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Hi Spec pot 305 mm discs + fast road pads. front mount. uprated fuel pump induction zorst boost computer... check fuelling.. .300+bhp... SORTED its possible to get 400bhp on the standard engine as one of the guys of the owners clup ran 400+ for over 2 years before it went pop. great cars when running properly.....very capable of sub 4 seconds 0-60 with a bit of cash spent ! |
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| MINESGTIR | Jul 22 2008, 02:52 PM Post #6 |
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i also reccomend Tein superstreet coilovers and BL00DY HELL what a difference... i highly reccomend toyo proxy R tyres....all round obviously |
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| sammi | Jul 23 2008, 12:47 AM Post #7 |
Doesn't have a home to go to!
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i recomend only get one if your made of money ! ours was so tuned it just kept breaking ! |
| [GK-customfield]sammi [customfield-GK] | |
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| MINESGTIR | Jul 23 2008, 07:43 PM Post #8 |
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I complelty agree... luckily for me im an international property broker im also 23 i paid £3250 for my GTIR and love it like my own child ... will NEVER part with her through cash, only if she goes into a tree etc..... its now cost £12,000 so far.. plansd for another £7000 to get forged engine and PPG straight cut gearbox to pulll out 500bhp then its a £20K car running 500bhp thats how i see it to justify it to myself... lol not a cheap car to get running right, however once mine is 500bhp i cant imagine much giving it a run for its money.. yeah... not cheap |
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8:05 PM Jul 11